This is supposed to be a capital city? The main town on the island, Rønne, has a sleepy calm. Colorful little houses cower in the cobblestone alleys. The evening sun shines on the yellow, orange and brick-red houses, bathing them in a mild Baltic Sea light. Hollyhocks grow in front of them. They look so cute that you could almost think the island mascot Krølle Bølle lived in one of them. The wildly curly Bornholm troll is nowhere to be seen here. But at Store Torv, on the market square, where Krølle Bølle ice cream is sold, his likeness adorns a sign. Almost everyone who strolls by here gives in and buys a cone of the cult soft ice cream. When the large ferries arrive, there is a certain hustle and bustle in the town. Goods are loaded and unloaded at the harbor, and newcomers pour out over the quay. Many roll off the ship by bike and immediately head to Cykelvej 10.
The national Danish bicycle route network includes cycle route no. 10, which runs for around 110 kilometers around Bornholm. The Danish island in the Baltic Sea is also criss-crossed by regional cycle routes. In total, the cyclist's paradise has a network of cycle routes covering almost 250 kilometers on dirt and forest paths, quiet side streets or specially designed cycle paths. They are signposted with the cycle route number, a directional arrow and kilometer markers in white on a green background.
On the cycle path 10 towards Hasle, the motto is: get out of Rønne, through a shady forest and along the sea. A black dog basks in the sun on white sand. After all, the Baltic Sea island is considered the sunniest area in Denmark. I do the same to the dog, lean my bike against a dune in a small bay and lie down in the buttery soft sand. “The sand of the dream beach Dueodde, for example, is so fine that it used to be used for hourglasses,” says a cyclist. A bag full of it must be taken home. Baltic waves roll in. A bird chirps its ever-same beep-beep, a quieter one in the background is more inventive and belts out a composition. On the horizon, two thick ships pass each other. Sailing dinghies cross back and forth. Two seagulls loudly feud, seemingly. Bornholm contemplations.
Beach fans have many large and small coves to choose from here. The long Balka Beach is also powder-sweet and calm. In general, Bornholm's nature is its greatest asset. You can cycle to white sandy coves and through the enchanted green Almindingen forest with its old hornbeams, silver firs, spruces, Douglas firs and oaks, a fairytale forest with talking stones, or to gray jagged cliffs like at Jons Kapel or the Helligdomsklipperne: you can get everywhere by bike. But you have to leave your bike at Jons Kapel, because a total of 108 steps lead down to the rock where the monk Jon is said to have preached and converted the people of Bornholm to Christianity. Legend has it that he lived in the three caves and grottoes. We three bicycle tourists don't know each other, but we've all descended and are now sitting on the stones, our eyes fixed on the caves and the miniature waves of the Baltic Sea. Not a word is spoken. Minutes later, one of the three sighs. We set off again and say a curt goodbye. Nothing should destroy this epic moment.
There are many of these to be experienced here. Whether on the mighty Helligdomsklipperne or in front of ancient rune stones in Østermarie and Aakirkeby, in front of megaliths, windmills, the island's typical squat round churches and the Neolithic passage grave in Arnager: the island has charisma and history. One of the most popular attractions is the mighty fortress of Hammershus at the northern tip of the island. Northern Europe's largest castle ruin, whose origin is unknown, sits on a 74-meter-high rock, majestically overlooking the Baltic Sea. Once the center of power for the archbishop, it was handed over to the Danish king in 1522 and just three years later it was given to the people of Lübeck as a pledge. Its checkered history meant that it came under Swedish command during the Swedish Wars, but in 1658 the people of Bornholm reclaimed Hammershus. Decay set in, and the stones of the castle were put to good use. Today, tourists walk across the medieval fortress bridge to the Tinghus, the court, to warehouses, stables, watchtowers and to the former brewery. Even beer was brewed in the castle's own brewery: the weakest was for the journeymen.
In the Nexø House, the childhood home of Martin Andersen Nexø, Bornholm's most famous artist and the second most famous Danish writer after Hans Christian Andersen, you can get closer to the poet. In “Pelle the Conqueror”, he vividly describes the hard life of the poor child Pelle and thus his own hard childhood and youth on Bornholm as a herder, stable boy and apprentice shoemaker. The film adaptation won an Oscar in 1988. Long misunderstood and rejected in Denmark due to his affiliation with the Communist Party, Nexø lived for many years in Dresden/GDR and the Soviet Union, where he was celebrated. Now, at least, he has been lovingly memorialized here.
As often as you see Krølle-Bølle ice cream, you will come across towering, chalk-white chimneys in small fishing villages, each indicating a smokehouse. The Hasle Røgeri, for example, is a must. The freshly smoked herring is placed on the plate while still warm from the oven, with wholegrain bread, chives and radishes. The once silver-colored fish glistens golden yellow in the sun. Smoking gives it an amber hue and the fish is called Bornholmer. That's what it's called, but it usually comes from the North Sea. It's a salty delicacy and the obsession of the whole island. Those who like it sweet will also find what they are looking for: Karamel Kompagniet is based in Gudhjem, besieged by busloads of people. Brightly colored candies are made in Svaneke on the market square. You can even watch them being made. Cyclists need not go hungry. Wherever you see the Danish or Bornholm flag fluttering in the wind, you can be sure of finding something to eat or drink. Strawberries, potatoes, dill or simply a private flea market with second-hand books.
Evening. Cutters bob in small ports. Golden light floods over the fields, blue cornflowers glisten in between. The wind rustles through the grass. The birds fall silent, the shadows grow longer. The swans drift along slowly. People stare into the blue, which is reflected in their eyes. The sun sinks into the smooth Baltic Sea. Bornholm Meditations.
